Rwanda 2015
Rwanda: genocide museum–volcanos—mountain gorillas. Impossible. And yet, there we were. The steep fee for visiting the gorillas covers guides, bearers, walking sticks, and a tracker to keep base camp apprised…
Zambia 2011
The answer to your first question is no, I wasn’t ever frightened. Cautious, yes. Somewhat intimidated, sure. Adrenaline pumping, you bet. But scared? Never. Our lion encounter began with a…
Antarctica, 2001
Here I am on South Georgia, amid roughly 300,000 nesting pairs of king penguins humming to each other. Yes, the sound is not a squawk; it’s more of a buzzing.…
Kamchatka Peninsula Siberia
At our first walrus haul-out, we were cautioned that walrus are skittish around humans, so we must approach stealthily. “Stealth” meant crawling on our bellies through purple squishy vegetation up…
Travel Adventures